Where to go in September

Peru

Your first hour in Cusco is spent sitting down. The altitude hits at 3,400 metres and the city doesn't apologise for it. Once you adjust, you notice the layers: Inca stone walls at the base of Spanish colonial churches, women in embroidered skirts selling coca leaves in the Plaza de Armas, and a constant smell of woodsmoke drifting down from hillside neighbourhoods where the tourist trail ends.

Hungary

The Danube splits the city in half and at night both banks glow, the parliament building lit gold on the Pest side, Buda Castle floating above the river like something left over from a grander era. Budapest smells like chimney cake and cigarette smoke near the ruin bars, and every third building is either crumbling beautifully or mid-renovation. It is the most dramatic city in Central Europe and it knows it.

Italy

A 50-kilometre stretch of cliff-hugging coastline south of Naples, where pastel towns like Positano and Amalfi tumble down to the sea. Lemon groves, winding coastal roads, and seafood define the southern Italian summer here.

United States

The ground hisses. Steam rises from cracks in the earth between patches of snow and pools the colour of boiled candy. Old Faithful is the famous one, but the smell of sulphur and the bubbling mud pots of the Norris Basin are what actually stay with you. This whole landscape sits on a supervolcano, and the park makes no effort to let you forget it.

Morocco

A former imperial city at the foot of Morocco's Atlas Mountains, built around a walled medieval medina of souks, palaces, and gardens. The main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa, shifts from market to open-air food court each evening.

Australia

You put your face in the water and the noise of the boat disappears. Below, a coral garden in colours that have no business existing: parrotfish grinding away at staghorn coral, a reef shark doing slow laps, a turtle ignoring you completely. The Great Barrier Reef is 2,300km of ocean ecosystem seen mostly from the surface, which is both humbling and, in the bleached sections, quietly devastating.

Italy

Italy's capital, where nearly 3,000 years of history layer together in plain sight. Ancient ruins like the Colosseum and Forum sit among baroque piazzas, fountains, and some of the country's most beloved food.

Madagascar

The baobabs at Morondava glow orange at dusk and the lemurs start calling before dawn, a sound somewhere between a dog and a foghorn that carries across the spiny forest. Madagascar smells like red laterite dust, vanilla on the east coast, and rain on dry earth. Ninety percent of the wildlife exists nowhere else, which sounds like a marketing claim until a ring-tailed lemur sits on your shoulder to steal your lunch.

Switzerland

A landscape that somehow exceeds every postcard you've ever seen, jagged peaks, glacial lakes the colour of liquid turquoise, and mountain railways engineered into cliff faces that would be reckless anywhere else.

Peru

A 15th-century Incan citadel perched on a ridge high in the Peruvian Andes, above the Sacred Valley. Abandoned for centuries and wrapped in cloud forest, its mortar-free stone walls and terraces remain remarkably intact.

Australia

The coffee arrives before you've sat down properly, and the person who made it will have opinions about the bean origin. Melbourne runs on ritual: morning flat whites in laneways painted floor-to-ceiling by people who got paid nothing, lunch at a Vietnamese place in Footscray that seats twelve, footy on the weekend. It's the city Australians move to when Sydney starts feeling shallow.

Canada / United States

Three waterfalls on the US-Canada border where 750,000 gallons of water per second drop over a 50-metre cliff, a spectacle of raw natural force surrounded by, admittedly, a somewhat tacky tourist town.