Chiang Mai
Thailand, Asia
Temples, night markets, and the north's best khao soi — Bangkok's cooler, calmer sibling.
You smell it before you see it — incense and grilled pork and jasmine, drifting out of temple compounds and night market stalls in equal measure. Chiang Mai is northern Thailand's old walled capital, ringed by a moat and backed by forested mountains. Inside the old city, 300 temples compete for attention between coffee shops and massage parlours. Outside it, rice terraces step up into hill-tribe country. The pace is slower than Bangkok, the food is arguably better, and everything costs half as much.
Our honest take
Chiang Mai is what people imagine Thailand to be before they land in Bangkok's chaos. It's walkable, cheap, temple-dense, and the food scene (especially northern Thai) is world-class. The Old City gets touristy but step two blocks outside the moat and you're in local neighbourhoods with no English menus. Stay at least 4 days — one for temples, one for a cooking class, one for Doi Suthep, one for getting lost.
Why go
- Khao soi, sai ua, and northern Thai food you won't find anywhere else — and it costs $2 a plate
- Sunday Walking Street market stretches for a kilometre through the old city — food, crafts, live music
- Doi Suthep temple at sunset is the closest thing to a spiritual moment most travellers will have in Thailand
Skip if you can
- Elephant 'sanctuaries' that let you ride — if you can sit on it, it's not ethical. Research carefully.
- The Tiger Kingdom — drugged animals for photos. Just don't.
- Nimman area restaurants — hipster tax for mediocre food. Eat inside the moat or at Warorot Market.
Things to do
- Temple hopping
- Cooking classes
- Night markets
- Hill tribe trekking
Where locals eat
Egg noodles in coconut curry broth topped with crispy noodles, pickled mustard greens, shallots, and lime
Khao Soi Khun Yai on Charoen Rat Rd (old house, one dish, always packed) or Khao Soi Mae Sai near Chang Phueak Gate
Northern Thai spiced sausage with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime — grilled and served with sticky rice
Warorot Market (ground floor, morning vendors) or SP Chicken on Soi 1 Saman Rd for the combo plate
Braised pork leg over rice with pickled mustard greens, soft-boiled egg, and chilli vinegar sauce
Cowboy Hat Lady (Chang Phueak night market, north gate — she actually wears the hat) from 5pm
Northern chilli dip with minced pork and tomato, served with raw vegetables and crispy pork rinds
Huen Phen on Rachamankha Rd (lunch = cheap canteen, dinner = formal restaurant — go for lunch)
Costs
Khao soi: 50-80 THB ($1.50-2.50). Cooking class: 800-1500 THB ($22-42). Temple entry: free to 40 THB. Doi Suthep songthaew: 60 THB round trip.
Airport, transport, and accommodation options
Good to know
- Burning season (Feb-Apr) causes severe air pollution — check AQI before booking
- Scooter accidents are common — always wear a helmet, check insurance coverage
- Respect temple dress codes — shoulders and knees covered, remove shoes
- Don't touch monks or hand things directly to them if you're female
Prices, visa rules, and transport details may change. Always verify with official sources before booking. Last updated: August 2026.
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