Tbilisi
Georgia, Asia
Ancient wine, crumbling beauty, and a city that stays up late.
The old town leans over the Mtkvari River like it forgot to stop. Carved wooden balconies, slowly rotting in the best possible way, hang over narrow lanes that dead-end at sulfuric bathhouses steaming in the open air. Someone is always grilling meat somewhere. The wine comes from the region that arguably invented it, and it costs almost nothing.
Our honest take
Tbilisi is one of Europe's best-value cities and it knows it. The old town is genuinely charismatic, not staged. The downside: infrastructure is patchy, sidewalks are an obstacle course, and driving is aggressive enough to feel personal. Natural wine culture is world-class. Three to four days is right.
Why go
- Georgian natural wine is ancient, amber-coloured, and drunk communally. Bars in Fabrika or on Vera hill charge 8-12 GEL ($3-4) a glass for bottles that would cost $30 in London.
- The sulfur baths in Abanotubani have been running for 1,500 years. A private room costs 15-25 GEL ($5-9) per hour and smells of eggs in a way that becomes oddly pleasant.
- The drive to Kazbegi takes three hours and ends at a church on a cliff above the clouds with a 5,000-metre peak behind it. Day trip or overnight from Tbilisi.
Skip if you can
- The Mtatsminda amusement park at the top of the cable car: overpriced, underwhelming rides, the view is the only reason to go.
- Chain khinkali restaurants on Rustaveli Avenue aimed at tourists. Walk ten minutes into Mtatsminda district and pay half the price for better dumplings.
- Renting a car in the city. Tbilisi drivers treat lanes as suggestions. Use Bolt, it's cheap and ubiquitous.
Things to do
Where locals eat
Twisted soup dumplings filled with spiced meat and broth. Grip the top knot, bite a hole, drink the juice, then eat the rest, the knot is left on the plate, not eaten.
A traditional khinkali house in Old Tbilisi
Cheese-filled bread; the Adjaruli version is a boat of dough with molten cheese, butter, and a raw egg stirred in at the table. Rich enough to share.
Barbarestan (19th-century Georgian recipes) or a traditional restaurant in Old Tbilisi
Georgian barbecue, chunks of pork or veal grilled over grapevine cuttings, served with tkemali plum sauce and raw onion.
A traditional Georgian restaurant
Vegetable-and-walnut pâtés (spinach, beetroot, or bean) topped with pomegranate seeds, the go-to Georgian vegetarian starter.
Any Georgian supra-style restaurant
Costs
Per person, per day on the ground, lodging, food, local transport and activities. Excludes international flights (see Getting there).
Khinkali dumplings: 1.50-2 GEL each ($0.55-0.70). Glass of natural wine: 8-15 GEL ($3-5.50). Metro ride: 1 GEL ($0.35). Narikala entry: free.
Getting there
Where to stay
Stone streets, sulfur bath proximity, boutique guesthouses in renovated Soviet buildings
Residential, tree-lined, good wine bars and cafes, quieter at night
Converted Soviet factory, hostel-heavy, nightlife, younger crowd, budget-friendly
Good to know
- Roads and pavements are poorly maintained. Watch your footing in the old town, especially after rain.
- Petty theft is uncommon but rising in tourist-heavy areas like Rustaveli. Keep phones out of back pockets.
- Tap water is drinkable in Tbilisi, unlike most of Georgia outside the capital.
- LGBTQ+ travellers should be aware that public displays of affection may attract unwanted attention. The city is liberal by Georgian standards but not uniformly welcoming.
Prices, visa rules, and transport details may change. Always verify with official sources before booking. Last updated: July 2026.