Buenos Aires
Argentina, South America
Europe's floor plan, Latin America's soul, Argentina's chaos.
Dinner starts at 10pm and nobody thinks this is unusual. Buenos Aires runs on a schedule that makes no sense until you've been here a week and then makes all the sense in the world. Porteños argue about football and politics with the same intensity, the steak arrives on a wooden board with no apology for its size, and the city's European facades are slowly being repainted by street artists who have claimed every blank wall they can find.
Our honest take
Buenos Aires rewards slowness. The city is large, transport can be confusing, and the economic situation means prices shift constantly. But the food is serious, the nightlife runs until dawn without irony, and tango is not a tourist gimmick here. It is what people actually do on Saturday nights.
Why go
- A parrilla dinner for two, with cuts of beef you cannot name but will eat all of, wine included, for around $30 USD at a neighbourhood restaurant that has no Instagram presence
- Recoleta Cemetery is not morbid. It is a city of marble mausoleums where generals and first ladies are stacked three deep, and you can spend two hours getting lost in it
- Live tango at a milonga in San Telmo on a Sunday afternoon: real dancers, not a stage show, admission under $5
Skip if you can
- La Boca beyond Caminito street: the colourful tin houses end quickly and the surrounding area is genuinely unsafe for tourists walking alone
- Tourist tango dinner shows in Palermo: $120 USD for a set menu and choreography that bears no resemblance to actual tango
- Changing money at official bank rates: the blue dollar rate (informal but widely used) offers significantly more value. Research current rates before you arrive.
Things to do
Where locals eat
Argentine beef over a wood parrilla is the point of eating here. Order a bife de chorizo (sirloin) or an asado spread, and know a parrillada includes offal (chinchulines, mollejas) if you want the full experience.
Don Julio in Palermo, the family parrilla turned World's-50-Best fixture (book well ahead), or a neighbourhood parrilla for less fuss
Baked or fried pastry pockets of beef, ham-and-cheese, or corn, the everyday Argentine snack, with regional variations across the country.
A neighbourhood empanada shop or bodegón
A breaded, fried veal or beef cutlet, the Italian-immigrant comfort dish of Buenos Aires, eaten as a main or in a sandwich, often 'napolitana' with ham, tomato, and cheese.
A classic porteño bodegón
Dulce de leche in everything, and medialunas (small, sweet croissants) with a cortado, the Buenos Aires café breakfast ritual.
A traditional café notable
Costs
Per person, per day on the ground, lodging, food, local transport and activities. Excludes international flights (see Getting there).
Note: Argentina's inflation is severe. Prices in ARS change rapidly. A restaurant lunch: 4000-8000 ARS ($4-8 USD). Subte ride: 500 ARS ($0.50). Museum entry: free to 3000 ARS ($3). All USD equivalents use approximate informal exchange rates.
Getting there
Where to stay
Restaurants, bars, parks, boutique hotels, safest neighbourhood for first-timers
Colonial cobblestone streets, antique markets, tango bars, older buildings, some noise at night
Grand avenues, upscale hotels, cemetery, French architecture, quieter at night
Good to know
- Petty theft is common on crowded buses and in tourist areas. Keep phones in pockets, not hands, and bags in front.
- La Boca outside the two-block Caminito area is a genuine safety risk. Do not wander.
- ATMs dispense ARS at poor official rates. Research your options for exchanging cash before arriving.
- Protests (piquetes) are frequent and can block major streets for hours. Check local news and build in buffer time for airport transfers.
Prices, visa rules, and transport details may change. Always verify with official sources before booking. Last updated: July 2026.
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